Oostduinkerke, Belgium – A number of hours after daybreak one late July morning, the sound of Gregory Debruyne’s horse Kelly trotting by way of the verdant lanes of Oostduinkerke echoes by way of the quaint coastal village in west Belgium.
Pulling a cart full of fishing gear and gear to sift shrimps, Kelly – a brown Belgian draught horse – and Debruyne are heading in direction of the sandy shores of the North Sea to go shrimp fishing.
Debruyne is a Belgian horseback shrimp fisherman in Oostduinkerke – the final place on the planet the place this centuries-old apply of catching shrimp utilizing horses slightly than boats continues.
“I realized horseback shrimp fishing from my father once I was 11 years previous,” Debruyne, now 27, tells Al Jazeera, as he will get Kelly able to fish for the day within the village centre, near the ocean.
Dozens of vacationers are crowding round them and eagerly watching as Debruyne covers Kelly with a heat blanket and mounts two brown baskets on both facet of her again. He additionally attaches a chained web to her tail.
“Utilizing her hindquarters, Kelly will wade by way of the shallow waves of the North Sea, till the seawater reaches her chest, pulling the web, which has a series on the backside. This pull generates a vibration that disturbs the shrimp within the shallow waters, instigating them to leap into the expanded web,” Debryune explains.
4 different fishermen and their horses have joined Kelly and Debruyne within the village. All of the horseback shrimp fishermen don vibrant yellow anoraks – thick waterproof jackets – and black gum boots and head off in direction of the North Sea on their horses.
“I hope to return after about an hour, with a worthy catch,” Debruyne shouts again because the spectators watch him and Kelly heading into the ocean.
Horseback shrimp fishing – which is on the “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity” listing maintained by the United Nations Instructional, Scientific and Cultural Group (UNESCO) – started in northern Belgium on the flip of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the area was below the management of Christian monks.
Whereas it was additionally practised within the Netherlands, France and components of southern England, simply 12 households in Belgium nonetheless pursue the custom.
In 1502, there was an abbey at Koksijde (in present-day Belgium) and the monks wished shrimps and fish to eat, one thing the native spiritual group was solely too glad to oblige. “The native farmers, who owned horses, determined to go to the ocean and catch shrimp and fish and provides it to the monks of the abbey. This kicked off the apply of horseback shrimp fishing,” Eddy D’Hulster, who labored as a horseback shrimp fisherman for 56 years, tells Al Jazeera.
Nowadays, horseback fishermen like Debruyne additionally work on business vessels to earn extra money. On vessels, the horseback shrimp fishers additionally catch different fish and never simply shrimp.
D’Hustler himself has additionally labored as a fisherman on vessels, however says he a lot prefers catching shrimp on horseback since he believes the brown shrimp is tastier when it comes from the shallow waters of the North Sea.
‘Dwell for the horse and the ocean’
Sporting a navy blue cap imprinted with an emblem of a horseback shrimp fisher, 81-year-old D’Hulster is watching the intense yellow anoraks of Debruyne and the opposite fishermen with their horses out at sea and reminiscing about his first time fishing in such a way.
“I began fishing for shrimp on horseback because of a love story,” he chuckles.
“I met this lovely woman within the village and realized that her father was a horseback shrimp fisherman. I started studying the custom from him once I was round 18 years previous, looking for to impress his daughter. We have been quickly married which was nice,” he says, blushing.
“However this was additionally the onset of an even bigger love story in my life which all the time made me really feel just like the king of the world – horseback shrimp fishing!” he exclaims.
Shrimp caught by the horseback shrimp fishermen within the North Sea are greyish-brown in color and referred to as brown shrimp. They’re discovered within the shallow waters of the ocean and Belgians think about them to be the tastiest shrimp on the planet attributable to their candy and salty flavour.
“After I began fishing, it was the start of spring and the North Sea again then was brimming with brown shrimp,” D’Hulster says. “Treading into the shallow waves of the ocean, we may simply catch about 20-30kg [44-66lbs] of shrimp and make a dwelling by way of this custom, incomes about 30 Belgian francs [about 0.75 euros] for a kilo.”
At present the value is 10 euros ($11.11) for a kilo of shrimp, he says, and “it’s the solely sort of shrimp I really like consuming”.
Whereas the catch and the cash they may earn was an incentive that drew younger women and men in Oostduinkerke to horseback shrimp fishing, D’Hulster says that for a lot of of them, it is usually a ardour for horses and the “mighty blue” North Sea, which retains the traditional custom alive right here.
“Shrimps are what we catch, however as a horseback fisherman, you will need to stay for the horse and love the ocean. After I began fishing, the factor I cherished the very best was my horse, Mina. She was about 10 years previous and I purchased her from my father-in-law. We realized shrimp fishing collectively,” he says.
Mina died when she was 20 years previous, after which it took D’Hulster six months to coach one other horse to fish.
“Mina taught me to like the open sea. I do miss her, however my household now owns round 10 to twenty horses that are skilled to fish within the sea,” D’Hulster says.
Like Kelly, Mina was a Belgian draught horse – a breed skilled for agricultural work. The horseback fishers purchase horses in large Belgian cities like Brussels and select the “calmest” ones to accompany them shrimp fishing. Calmness makes it simpler to coach the horse to tread by way of the waves of the ocean and to not be alarmed by sea creatures within the shallow waters by the shore.
Whereas any horse might be skilled to shrimp fish, the Belgian draught horse which is often known as the “Brabant” horse (named after the province in Belgium) enjoys the briny waters of the North Sea and, being larger, stronger and quicker than different breeds, can higher assist the fishers to hold out their commerce effectively, in response to D’Hulster.
Local weather change: A front-row view
After a bit greater than 45 minutes at sea, Debruyne and the opposite horseback shrimp fishermen regularly start returning to the shore.
As quickly as Kelly’s moist hooves contact the sandy seaside of Oostduinkerke, she grunts, apparently declaring her arrival to all who’re watching. Debruyne alights from her again and rushes to separate the web from Kelly. A bunch of seagulls is hovering over it, eager to see if they could get fortunate and make off with some shrimp.
Debruyne shakes the web, which appears stuffed with shrimp. However as soon as emptied out, the catch is revealed to be principally moss, seaweed and barely a kilo of brown shrimp.
“At present’s catch shouldn’t be value it,” Debruyne says earlier than emptying it out to the ocean, together with the small quantity of shrimp that’s not definitely worth the effort of cleansing and cooking. “We had a ball of a time fishing, however I’ll return over the weekend to fish for shrimp once more,” he says and heads off to benefit from the sea waves with Kelly and vacationers who need to pose for footage together with her.
Debruyne and Kelly usually go fishing thrice per week in the course of the summer time months. In October, fishing season, they enterprise into the ocean virtually on daily basis. They often catch round 5-6kg [11-13lbs] of shrimp, which is cooked and offered to family and friends.
“This shrimp lasts just for about two days and must be consumed instantly,” Debruyne says. “For the reason that catch can be not many kilos, we don’t promote it out there. Years in the past, you would catch 30kg [66lb] and earn a dwelling from it. At present it’s purely for tourism,” Debruyne stated.
However their proximity to the ocean has given them a front-row view of how local weather change can affect the North Sea’s ecosystem, and D’Hulster worries about what this might imply for the way forward for shrimp fishing.
“The shrimp populations are lowering. If we begin catching lower than 3kg [7lbs] of shrimp, I’m undecided how we are able to fish,” he says. “Maybe we are going to turn out to be horseback fishers catching different species of fish.”
Not one of the horseback shrimp fishers could make a correct dwelling from the custom today. They work on business ships, within the building enterprise or within the agriculture sector on the opposite days of the week.
“I purchased Kelly for about 3,000 euros [$3,330] in Brussels, which is some huge cash. I additionally want cash to groom her and maintain her,” says Debruyne. “By means of horseback shrimp fishing, I can earn solely round 100 euros [$111] in a day. However I really like my horse and this custom of shrimp fishing. So, I don’t thoughts additionally working different jobs to fund my ardour for this custom.”
D’Hulster says the native municipality has additionally been making an attempt to assist the fishermen proceed the custom by paying them a small charge to pursue it as a vacationer exercise.
‘In 3,000 years, we are going to nonetheless be fishing right here’
Local weather change is contributing to the decline in shrimp numbers right here, specialists say.
Belgium has been experiencing heatwaves for the previous few years and the North Sea’s floor temperature has increased by round 0.3 levels Celsius (0.54 levels Fahrenheit) per decade since 1991, in response to the European Atmosphere Company.
Hans Polet, a fisheries scientist and science director on the Institute for Agriculture, Fisheries and Meals Analysis (ILVO) at Oostende, in Belgium, explains that the results of local weather change, climate fluctuations and adjustments within the inhabitants of the shrimp’s pure predators within the North Sea have impacted total shrimp populations.
“The brown shrimp within the North Sea is a short-living species. It normally lives for 2 years, which signifies that there are lots of fluctuations within the biomass as a result of they rely fairly strongly not solely on the local weather, but additionally on the yearly climate. For instance, chilly and harsh climate will affect their breeding success after which the subsequent yr there can be only a few shrimps,” Polet says.
He notes that final yr was a very poor yr for shrimps within the North Sea, partly as a result of the primary predator of shrimp, which is codfish, has begun transferring north from extra southerly waters attributable to local weather change, impacting total shrimp populations.
Polet provides that the strategy of shrimp fishing can even affect the species.
“If you happen to solely have a look at the environmental affect, I feel horseback shrimp fishing isn’t very dangerous as a result of it includes using towed fishing gear and horses trampling within the sand in shallow waters, the place pure disturbances of the ocean, like waves, are fairly robust. So the ecosystem that lives there’s used to robust disturbances and fishing doesn’t make a lot of a distinction,” Polet says.
“Now, the deeper you go within the sea, the affect of waves decreases and animals are used to quieter situations. So industrial fishing executed on this a part of the ocean tends to have a detrimental affect on the surroundings.”
Polet says methods comparable to electrical fishing are additionally sustainable choices. This system includes utilizing a really small electrical pulse of round 5 hertz in fishing gear, which makes the shrimp soar to allow them to be caught with out the gear touching or damaging the ocean ground.
Whereas local weather change is a matter that the horseback fishers are conscious of, many are optimistic that their fishing custom will proceed because it has generated a powerful sense of identification of their group.
Those that pursue the custom do it as a result of they love horses and so they love fishing, says D’Hulster. “It’s not all about cash. For a lot of, it is usually the vital methodology of carrying ahead a household custom. So even ladies and kids within the household pursue the custom.”
“If you end up on a horse’s again and head out to fish within the North Sea early within the morning by your self, all you see in entrance of you is the mighty blue sea. It’s a tremendous feeling,” he says with a glimmer in his eyes.
“So in 3,000 years, even when there are not any shrimp, you’ll nonetheless see the fishers of Oostduinkerke on horseback, fishing, as a result of that is our custom and can all the time make us really feel just like the kings or queens of the world.”